FALL
FALL
This page features a to-do schedule
adapted specifically for Pahrump, Nevada
(Oct, Nov, Dec)
This is the time of year that always makes me a little sad: summer is gone for the year, but there is a lot that can be done and should be done now before the winter hits hard.
First of all we should be doing a complete system check on the irrigation system:
checking for coverage
that all the heads are pointed in the right direction
that all the heads, both drip and sprinkler, are working properly.
look for puddles around one to two of the heads in a single zone. This is a sign that the automatic valve is leaking. We don't have to change out the heads, just repair the valve.
check the automatic valves to make sure the valve opens and closes correctly. If the timer has a delay on it, then the valve should open after 10 seconds. It should also close completely before 10 seconds have elapsed at the end of the cycle. If the valve hangs up, or does not close completely in 10 to 15 seconds, then repairing the valve is a good idea before the valve fails altogether.
this is also a good time to feed the landscape. If you don't have an EZ-FLO™ then this is a manual process. The type of landscape food will be determined by the type of landscape you have. For grass or turf, I recommend putting down 16-20-0, about 2/3 to 3/4 of what the bag recommends. This is a hot fertilizer and should be applied with caution.
Check the landscape. Yes, you read me right: a system check on your landscaping.
Check your trees: Check for injuries, such as tree ties are not cutting into the bark or the trunk of the tree. If they are, cut them off, as they are too tight.
Bug infestation: Signs that the tree is being invaded by bugs are holes in the trunk of the tree, sap blisters, or sap dripping from the tree. Treating it now is going to be a slow process because the tree is not taking up much water, however, if we use plugs, such as Acer caps, the bug killer will start to work right away.
Bath Time: Now would also be a good time to give the evergreen trees a good power shower. With a high pressure nozzle on the end of a garden hose, soak the entire tree, making sure to saturate inside the foliage. You are trying to get rid of bugs like spider mites and the like. Most of the "BAD BUGS" are not around anymore this time of the year. Also, when spraying for bugs it is always a very good idea to inspect the bugs, as you really don't want to kill off lady bugs, praying mantis or any of the other "GOOD BUGS." These insects can really help out the landscape, so just because you see a "BUG," don't kill everything in and around the landscaping. Some of these bugs need to be in our gardens and flowers.
Overseeding: This is the time of year to overseed your turf areas. Prep the grass, then seed perennial rye or other cool-weather grass. This is also a good time to put down a good weed & feed.
WEED & FEED
HOW AND WHEN TO APPLY.
There are 2 basic types of weed and feed, wet and dry. The wet types are usually in a hose end spray bottle.
While the directions on the bottle are a little hard to understand sometimes, the main things to look for are the temperature, and how much to apply. Usually weed and feeds should not be applied when the outside air temperatures are above 85 degrees, the amount to apply is usually dictated by what weeds you are spraying for.
The one mistake most often made is thinking that “there are a lot of weeds here so lets put down at least half the bottle.” This is nothing more than a big waste of money. All liquid weed and feeds kill weeds by means of the product making contact with the broad leaf and soaking into the plant. This also means that when you apply the weed and feed, you don’t cut or mow everything down and then apply it. you want the product to actually come to rest on the weed leaf so it will soak in there and travel down to the root. This is what will kill the weed, it is not a contact killer.
The other type of weed and feed is dry. And just like the wet kind, most say not to apply when air temperatures are above 85 degrees. The main reason for this is that when applying a dry weed and feed, you should wet everything down very well, then apply. You want the weed killer to stick to the leaf of the weed. Most dry weed and feed directions will tell you that after you apply the product, do not water again for 2 days. This gives the weed killer a chance to soak into the leaf, travel to the root and kill the weed once and for all.
So when do you apply either kind of weed and feed? This should be done early spring or fall when the outside air temps are below 85 to 90 degrees.
One last note on weed and feeds: most of our blooming flowers are considered “Broad Leaf” including roses, so knowing this, ALL weed and feeds will tell you on the package that they will kill “BROAD LEAF” weeds. Unfortunately, the weed and feed cannot tell the difference between a weed and a rose bush or other flower, so it is very important that when you apply any kind of weed and feed or even just a weed killer,make sure there is little or no wind, and watch out for overspray, either from the hose end sprayer, or the spreader you use. You don’t want any of this product to land on your flowers.
Diseases: If you have fungus or some type of lawn disease, it’s too late in the season to deal with it. Just overseed and deal with it at the beginning of the next growing season.
Timers: Reprogram your clocks/timers to water during the day and not at night.
Insecticides: This is the time to put down a systemic insecticide in trees and flowers. It will be done again in February or March.
NOVEMBER TO DO LISTPruning: Don't prune roses or trees at this time of year. Mid February will be the time to prune.
ANNUALS
An early freeze is possible in zone 9 and the Pahrump Valley is in zone 8 or 9 depending which book you are referring to. To protect young annuals from freezing, cover the plants with burlap, ground cloth or something of the like, and remove when the temperatures get above freezing. You can weigh down the edges of the cover with rocks or bricks to keep them from blowing away.
WATERING
It is important to keep a good hand on the watering of all plants during the winter, just like summer, as too much water can be harmful. The rule of thumb here is to water to a depth of 3 to six inches and then do not water again until the top of the soil is dry to the touch. This gives the water a chance to do what it is supposed to do before adding more.
FERTILIZING
Annuals in the ground might need to be fed this time of year. I recommend a slow release on top of the soil, lightly scratched, which will do the trick. but here again, take great care when fertilizing flowering plants in winter, too little will stress the plants, too much will burn them. The stress will not be noticeable until spring, and then it is usually to late to do remedy the situation.
BULBS
CARE
The easiest way to protect bulbs from freezing temperatures is to cover with them with mulch. This not only helps protect from freeze, but also will provide some nutrients to the plants over the long run. After the first freeze, cut back and discard the leaves in a compost pile or other area away from the plants. This keeps out unwanted bugs from setting up house which can cause problems in the spring.
WATERING
Again, watering in winter is just as important as it is in summer. Water when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, and do not over water.
FERTILIZING,
Fertilizing bulbs in winter is not really necessary mainly, because the plant has gone dormant. Container plants, however, need to be fed regularly, but sparingly.
PERENNIALS
Here in Pahrump, we can still plant cup flower, Dusty Miller, and violets. When planting perennials here, be sure to plant natives and/or cold hardy species, otherwise, our work will be for naught as they will be lost to the first freeze.
CARE
Protect tender plants or new plants with a covering such as a cardboard box, frost cloth or other material that will form a shield over the plants. For any plants that are really cold sensitive, build up a pile of mulch or straw up to 6 inches deep. Here again, be careful not to pile it up right up ON the plant.
WATERING
Established perennials should be watered at least once a week here in Pahrump, but newly planted perennials might need every other day or so. Keep an eye on them and just as before, when the top of the soil is dry to the touch, it is time to water again.
FERTILIZING
NO NEED TO FERTILIZE THIS MONTH.
GROOMING OR PRUNING
If there is frost or freeze damage on the plant, it is usually best to wait until the danger of another frost or freeze is gone before cutting away the damaged parts of the plant.
ROSES
CARE
Most of the rose bushes in this area are starting to go dormant, the leaves are starting to look a little ragged, but do not fret, it will get better, just not tomorrow.
WATERING
In the cold part of the season, cut back on the watering. Instead of every day or every other day, try every 4th or 5th day, but again do the test, water, then wait till the top ½ inch of the soil is dry before watering again.
PRUNING
Put down the shears and walk away, JUST WALK AWAY, it is not time to cut yet.
FERTILIZING
It is not really needed this month. Do this at another time, perhaps just before they really start growing in the spring.
PESTS
Rose mosaic virus appears at this time of year as yellow zigzag lines on all or part of the leaf. It is spread by budding plants onto affected rootstock. Infected plants must be destroyed. The best prevention for this, and most other problems with roses, is to buy them from a well known nursery.
SHRUBS
CARE
During the cold months there's really not much to do with shrubs. Feeding or fertilizing maybe once a month or so might be prudent, but remember that the major rule of thumb here is a little is good, a little more might be bad and a lot is really, really bad. Now is also a good time to clean under the shrubs. Make sure there are no bug cities living there, and make sure that the water delivery device is not covered and is in good working condition. Trimming or cutting, or even shaping the shrubs should not be done this month, it is best to let it go until a little later.
TREES
CARE
The trees that are going to lose their leaves are starting to do so now. Young trees that were just planted this year may need an extra layer of mulch, straw, or pine straw at the base to help protect the root zone during it’s first winter. It is also time to check for tree tie damage. Make sure that the tree ties are not to tight or cutting into the bark., Make sure the well around the young tree is free of anything that should not be there, (tools, animal droppings, weeds etc). Also make sure the water delivery device is WHERE it should be, close to the drip line and not close to the trunk. Little things like this will make sure that the young tree planted this year will be around for a long time to come.
FRUITS
CARE
Citrus is not known to do well here, but if you do have some, wrap the trunk with a blanket, frost cloth or other porous material, if you use plastic, attach it to a frame, do not let it touch the plant as it will usually burn the tree. Replace any coverings that get wet as they will freeze and damage the plant. Keep all droppings picked up from around the bottom of the plant as this is the perfect place for bugs and bacteria and fungus to grow. Provide a good layer of mulch around the root zone, 5 to 8 inches thick. Make sure that the mulch is not piled up on the trunk; this will hold water and will rot the bark in that area. Also a good inspection of the trees once a month during the winter, or at least every other month, is a good idea, just to keep on top of any problems that might come up.
WATERING
Once again, following the rule of thumb for watering trees is very important. Water deeply once and then not again until the top inch of the soil is dry, over watering here is very damaging to the trees, more so than in summer, mainly because you will not see the effect until spring and by then, the damage is done.
FERTILIZING
Do not fertilize this month. The trees are in a dormant state and not taking up much of anything, and we don’t want to over fertilize, which is what will happen if we keep putting it down and it just sits there.
GRASSES
Because water does not evaporate from the ground as fast in winter as it does in summer, take care not to over water. Here again there is the formula that will stay true throughout the year. The only thing that should change is the number of times you water. The rule is:
Turn on the zone and time it. When water starts to run, puddle or pool, stop, subtract two minutes. That gives the fall/winter run time. Do not water again until the top 1 to 2 inches of the turf is dry. How do we determine this? Using a shovel, stick it in the grass to a depth of about a third to half the height of the blade on the shovel, rock the shovel back and forth until you can see to the bottom of the cut, and check for moisture levels. This will give you a good idea of how often to water. Again, the length of time you water should not change too much but the number of times you water will. Other grasses in your landscape such as Pampas grass or other ornamental grasses should be watered the same way. Do not cut or prune your ornamental grasses this month as many of them are still actively growing.
FERTILIZING
Feeding and fertilizing your lawn should be done on a regular basis, even during the winter, however, remember that the absorption of the fertilizer will be a lot slower in colder months so take care not to overdo it, follow the direction on the bag.
PESTS
Weeds can flourish even during winter. A good weed and feed should do the trick, but don’t put if off much longer, and remember how to put it down: read the directions. This is also a good time to put down a good insecticide to control all those unwanted little buggers in our lawns, such as ants, crickets, and the like.